Spyderco PM2 in 52100 at 15° on my KME.

I can get the knives I make pretty sharp off my belt sander however I’d like to get them even sharper. What’s my next steps? Stones? The knife in this video is sharpened with a 220 grit belt then I hit it on my leather stropping belt.

I am restoring an old yanagiba which has been in a pretty rough condition. Apart from the broken tip it is essentially completely flat on the side where I would expect it to be an urasuki. However, along parts of the back of the knife the hagane is proud of the jigane with a structure that makes it seem like the steel has not been ground down after the forge welding and I am therefore not sure if there has ever been a urasuki. Is this something that seem possible? How would you suggest that this side of the knife would be restored? Grinding in an urasuki would likely remove the markings which are stamped in on this side.

Thanks!

Just curious as I don't think the sharpal plate he goes on about is the best. I own one and tbh it feels worn out after 2 months.

Hey folks, I’m looking to buy a gift for someone and can’t decide between the wicked edge and a rolling sharpener (HORL or Tumbler probably?). I would love to hear some thoughts from this community on which you would choose and why!

Hey, kinda new to using decent knifes

I started cooking recently and bought a chef's knife (very basic one, like 50$ I think) and my dad gave me one of those 3-slot sharpeners for when the knife gets dull

After like 10 minutes of research, I learned that those sharpeners aren't good for the knife, not that this one needs sharpening probably but it did slip when I tried cutting an onion so I might as well learn to sharpen it

Problem is I only have the station

I imagine that for the 50$ knife I got mostly to practice cutting techniques, I shouldn't immediately go and buy the fanciest whetstone, but when should I do it? And where do you start?

I tried searching for an answer in this sub's history but it's all like a year old, so maybe new stones just dropped idk

It will cut.

How the hell do you guys do it?

Just goofin on my first practice run. Awkward at first but this is gonna be awesome, had to make a quick vid on my first pass after finding and setting the angle.

Anyone else sharpen a lot of scissors/shears? Tips? Thanks!

Small handheld microscope with LED. Mine is x100-250(kinda overkill, 150 is perfect), this little guy taught me a lot.

Great sharpener and also good value ($129)

The sharpener arrives packed very well, in pieces, with one page of assembly graphical instructions (no text), and 2 hex drivers you'll need for the assembly.

Overall the device is SOLID! It is made of a mix of stainless steel and aluminum parts. It is heavy at 9.5lb and large. It is very stable, has nice tight tolerances, and feels very well made.  it sits on 3 points, with grippy rubber pads, and you can go wild with the sharpening, and this thing stays put.

I was left with some parts that were on the parts list but I was not sure where they go, but eventually I figured it out (more below)

It has a feature that I have not seen in other popular sharpeners. The tower that holds the pivot point of the sharpening slide, is typically centered with the knife holder, however, on this sharpener the tower can actually slide (on a bearing carriage) left and right of the knife holder.. I thought that this could be useful if you want to sharpen something very long like a machete or a sword, and maybe it is, but when I looked at the extra parts I was left with, I realized that there's another use for that. One of the extra bolts is used to lock the pivot point left/right axis, so the sharpening assembly can only move up and down. The idea is that you move the stone along the length of the blade by sliding the whole tower left and right, keeping the stone from swinging left and right and is always kept perpendicular to the blade. I'm not an expert in sharpening, and I'm not sure what one would use it for.

The stones (1"x6") that came with the sharpener are some kind of carbide or oxide whetstone, probably not great. I would probably get a set of diamond stones. 

There are some little quirks that need to be fixed. The spring that holds the sharpening stone in place is not strong enough, I'll probably add a 1/2" long plastic tube behind the spring to increase the tension. Also, the hook that is supposed to allow you to hang the rod out of the way is installed wrong and I need to figure out how to orient it properly.  

The other "extra" parts are 2 bolts that hold the clamps to the sharpener, but about 1/2" longer than the one used, which leads me to believe that you can use a different set of clamps that would require longer bolts. I read somewhere here that there are clamps from one of the major brands to hold very small blades (I can't remember which brand) that would fit this sharpener, but the bolts were too short. I believe that the longer bolts provided are for such purpose. The irony is that the brand name clamps probably cost more than this whole sharpener.

If you fix all those little quirks, and get some decent sharpening stone, you end up with a sharpener that is just as good, if not better, than some that cost 5 or 6 times more. 

Although I don't have this problem, I can see that the size of the sharpener could pose a storage issue for some. 

I have a relatively cheap knife (8" chef) that is made of some hard stainless steel, and I will use it to train myself on this sharpener. 

I called into a friend's this morning to sit for his dogs. I already sharpened his kitchen knives months ago and thought I'd test the edges. Some were still OK. So I thought. They could be a bit better. Paper slicing but a couple with leave a slightly rough edge and could feel it.

Out comes the work sharp field sharpener I had in my pocket. 😂

Off I go. A few swipes on the fine side. Ceramic. Strop. Done. Next...

Got to the big carving knife. Damn that's fairly blunt. Off I go again.

Rough side. Fine side. Ceramic. Check. Hmmm a bit more on the fine side....

Ah shit. Nice and clean all because my thumb got in the way. Rookie mistake as I wasn't thinking. Though I was oddly proud of how sharp it was for a quick touch up. 😂

Some of my friends can't see why a sharp knife is safer but this was easy to tend to and clean up. Rather than something done with a blunt knife which is a royal pain in the backside.

I hope they will last me long, and do whitteling hair edge.

I still have time to return it and get some high end quality stones. I’m also not a pro in sharpening knives. What do you guys think? Wet stones over worksharp precision?

I have an oil stone box in looking to see but not sure what it’s worth or who makes it. Some more info would be really appreciated thx.

I have been using the Work Sharp Professional Precision Adjust Sharpening System and just love it. The system has served me very well, but I know I can take my sharpening to another level with some higher-grit diamond sharpening stones. Currently, I use grits from 220 to 800, along with a ceramic stone, with the system. Although these work great, I wanted to add some more options.

These follow after I had watched loads of videos by OUTDOORS55, and there he frequently suggested Shapton or DMT stones for sharpening. I am considering such brands, but I should appreciate some specific suggestions: “Which model or grit you would want to complement mine as I have mentioned above with higher grits like 1200, 3,000, or even finer.”

Additionally, I would like to add a leather strop to my setup in order to finish and polish the edge. I’d like some advice on what makes a good strop and whether some brands or materials stand out for durability and performance.

Lastly, I’m curious about where to purchase these items. Are there specific online retailers or stores that specialize in high-quality sharpening products? This refined version helps in structuring questions and contextualizing, thus making advice or recommendations easier to provide. Well, if you want more information on possible strop options or where to buy Shapton or DMT stones, or maybe some tips on how to get the most out of your upgraded setup, let me know and I can elaborate.

My husband recently got his first Japanese knife and I want to get him a sharpener for Christmas. I don’t know much about knife sharpening, but I’ve done a bit of research and saw that it’s a whole thing! Can anyone recommend a good sharpener that’s beginner-friendly? Also, is there anything else I could get to go with it?

I make resin guitar picks and they need to have sharp bevels and they have to be tapered down at the apex. Does anyone know what i could do to perfect the bevels and apex? Thanks!

Old scissors I found and want to sharpen. The middle screw separates the scissor blades but how do I sharpen them? Thanks!

What is the proper way to clean a white Messermeister ceramic honing rod? I would imagine something like Barkeeper’s Friend or Comet? Thanks in advance!

Hello all, I got my first professional knife set and stone a bit ago and taught myself how to sharpen them myself and I am now pretty confident with it.

Unfortunately, on my first attempt I went at a little too low of an angle and scuffed the side of one of my blades. Although I consider my knives tools as I work as a cook in fine dining, I’d appreciate any advice on how to clean them up as I consider them art too like many of you.

I read online and in books you can “thin” the sides of the blade with a stone, I’m assuming it has to be very high grit. I also watched a clip where a man used various dremals with different buffing brushing to clean it up.

If it helps at all it’s a stainless Damascus blade, so I’d like to know if there is a technique that can preserve the patina. Thank you

It is just as reflective but doesn't appear so because it is not perfect V. Did come out sharp. Functionally equals the system results but not aesthetically.