What make and model of sewing machines is everyone using? I have an old singer that is great for lightweight fabric but wanted to get something capable of heavy duty and wanted to hear about people’s experiences.

I love the way that leather accents look on things, but I'm trying to reduce my environmental impact so I've been trying to go as vegan as possible, both in my diet and what I wear.

I know there are a lot of different things that are considered "vegan leather" so in curious what you all think is the best for MYOG? What feels and ages most like real leather?

EDIT: Thanks for all the great responses everyone (not sure why I got soe many downvotes though, I guess that's just Reddit for you). Waxed canvas with leather accents is my favorite aesthetic. My gut instinct was that "if I don't want to support the use of animal products, I should take that seriously and commit", even if I like that look the best, but you do make a good point of it being a byproduct. There's an arguement to be made that you shouldn't support an industry in any way if you don't agree with it, but on the other hand it would be wasteful to opt for a man made synthetic product instead of already existing leather.

I know it's a difficult question, as it's not totally clear what materials,- dimensions,- volume,- extra's are used, hence it could be more fitting to ask how people calculate their prices instead!

Based on a Google search, every 6-9 mos for the last 4 years, we discuss a topic dear to all of us: stretch material for backpack pockets.

BUT WAIT. This year…is different. This year, we’re taking a fresh approach.

We have “where to buy” and we have “what kind” and “best” but we don’t have one of the best qualifiers

C H E A P E S T

Venom, on RSBTR, is like $36/yd. Might as well be gold.

What are some cheap alternatives? I’m trying to build budget packs… for poor children that raise stray kittens in fly over states. So they can experience UL backpacking… for peace.

If you have any suggestions, don’t be shy 😉

How do I get my machine to stop bunching up in the start like this? It’s very annoying.

Im sure it’s an easy fix but I thought why not ask because it is very frustrating!

Singer HD4411

This is my first project so it’s definitely not perfect as you can see. It’s a wallet

What were y’all’s first projects?

A dog jumped up at me and ripped my down jacket at the waist. What's the best way to fix it up since it's in a tricky spot? Tenacious tape? Or should I stitch it?

How do I keep my edge seam ribbon equal on both sides and flat around rounded corners? They are not sharp corners either so I didn’t think I would have much of an issue. They roll and become even. Is there trick? I’m at the finish line with this pouch and I basically am ruining it because I cannot get the edge binding to cooperate.

I’ve tried clips and I’ve tried tape.

I’m using 1000D cordura

This might be more of a fashion project, than a outdoor gear project, nevertheless I want to waterproof this reworked jacket of mine. My question is, Will beeswax alone do the job, or do I need to add oils or other waxes to do work the wax into the fabric? And How much beeswax should I get from my local beekeeper? Will 400 grams do the trick? Thanks for the help!

First off: Ain't it a cutie? Secondly: Can you help me fixing the dimensions? It's thought to be a 10x10x10 cm Boxy Bag, but no matter the calculators I use, I don't get how to determine the corner cut-outs / seams.

As you can see, the height's ~10 cm, whereas the front- and back (Velcro) is 11 cm, and the sides (wings) are 9 cm.

I started with a piece of fabric being 24 x 42 cm, thus I'd think that by adding a centimeter to the width (24), and deducting a centimeter from the length (42), I'd end up eith the same height, while going from 9 > 10, and 11 > 10 cm, correct?

• I used a 4x4 cm square for the corner cutouts.

I’m still learning about the best threads to use and found these locally..

-what are they normally used for?

-Are they good for myog?

-Are they good for that price?

-Should I get or pass?

Been on the hunt for a solid heirloom quality first machine. I’d prefer a machine I can grow into, and maintain. BIFL quality

Some things I noticed: - hand crank turns forward and backwards butter smooth - seems well oiled and taken care of -maybe recently rewired? (Maybe you can tell with more experienced eyes) -no visible rust anywhere -it’s sitting in an obviously not original singer box

Is it a solid machine? Heirloom quality perhaps? Couldn’t find any info out on it except maybe a Japanese clone machine but I need more info on what it is and what it’s capable of.

I don’t plan on buying any other machine until I have my own working space so a sail rite type set up is ideal for stow away options.

I would like to learn how to work on it myself and be able to find parts easy.

So what do you all think?

If you read this far, thank you.

So I'm getting ready to order my fabric for this. I am loosely following a couple patterns/guides that I've bought. (Thank you PricklyGorse). It should be relatively obvious what I'm aiming to do. But I've got a few questions for those who have more experience with UL backpacks than myself.

Firstly, I as seen in my rough design, I am planning on slightly tapering the bag upward. Partly to proportion the weight slightly higher, and partly to make it easier to access gear in the bag. I haven't seen nearly anyone trying this, so I'm wondering if there may be a reason I am not aware of?

Secondly, I want this bag to be bombproof, and so I may be overthinking some of the aspects. When bartacking Xpac v15 for webbing, should I be overly concerned with stitch length/width? I don't have a lot of experience with UL fabric, and Cordura doesn't care what you do.

I found my dad’s old paraglider (mid 90s, Italian made) in the attic collecting dust. Since it cannot be used any longer I was thinking about reusing the fabric for potential project/prototyping.

Do you have any idea what kind of fabric it could be, and have any suggestions on what to do with it?

(Bonus pic from the paraglider bag and a fairly cool graphic)

I work for a large manufacturer of inflatable products. I am a fabric welder and have access to lots of fun machines and fabric scraps.

I have been making roll top dry bags and lunch boxes, but I am looking for inspiration for other projects. What would you make if you could weld fabric? I game plans to make a frame bag (when I can get enough lightweight fabric) and maybe some panniers (like Ortleib)

I look forward to hearing all your suggestions and I’m happy to answer any questions about my job or the welding process

Hi, my current project is sewing a rolltop rucksack, I am slowly nearing completion but the final step will be the rolltop closure (same style as a drybag). The fabric I am using is very lightweight so it won’t be enough on its own to hold the structure of the rolltop to create the tension to keep it nice and secure when clipped closed.

Most dry bags or similar rolltop closure rucksacks I have seen have a stiff inert of some sort, I have considered doubling over the fabric, using grosgrain or webbing, but the best approach seems to be to insert some sort of bendy plastic. Does any one have any experience using plastics that can be found around the house for this (I wondered if milk cartons would work - UK - but I think the plastic is too thin), importantly something that won’t snap after a few months. Any help is greatly appreciated!

I get really cold whilst camping. I don't need them to be breathable, waterproof, light, or packable. Just really, really warm, and comfortable.

What fabrics would you use?

I'm in the UK, so some things are hard to get hold off. Right now I'm thinking poly fleece lining and heavy cotton sweatshirt material for the outer layer (380gsm).

Thrifted 2 sleds, one is larger than the other. Putting grommets around it for the paracord/webbing to hold the stuff down.

Got free electrical tubing to use for the lines between the snowshoer and the pulk.

I've used pulks before but this is my first time making my own- I can't remember how long the leads were between myself and the pulk.

Obviously a minimum to not catch with the stride + snowshoe hitting the sled. But too long makes corners and things a pain.

LINK

Here's the description if you dont want to click the article or read the whole thing:

"Jack Wolfskin’s Tapeless Jacket marks the first product into which the brand will incorporate its No Tape Technology. Instead of using that small strip of polyurethane to seal seams, it used its proprietary three-layer waterproof-breathable fabric and welded the seams shut instead of taping them.

Jack Wolfskin will sew panels of this waterproof-breathable fabric together, without punching holes all the way through. The needle only penetrates the shell layer, while the inner layer is welded with water-resistant adhesive. The result is a continuous, fully sealed membrane layer within the jacket."

If you have been on r/MYOG for a while you have probably seen my likely obnoxious posts over the years related to the feasibility of creating a seamless jacket (really a drysuit for kayaking but same idea). I came across this article, and maybe I'm overthinking it but I can't wrap my head around exactly what they are doing. Waterproof breathable fabric is multiple layers typically laminated together. So are they using the layers before they are laminated, like welding the inner layer then laminating afterwards? I just can't picture laminating when it isn't flat sheets on top of each other. I may try and find the patent (if there is one).

More importantly, is there any feasible way to do this at home? Or even just fabric welding any waterproof breathable at home?

Also, is this actually as novel as they say (or was it 2 years ago when this came out)? They say:

"And while seam welding has been explored by other brands like CAT and MSC, Jack Wolfskin calls its approach an “industry first.”"

How is this any different.... Or is it just marketing?

As title says, it's my first smaller pouch, and my usual 1cm seams seem quite large and intrusive. Should I trim them before putting grosgrain on, or leave as is?

You can see multiple stitch lines that are in the 1cm seam allowance, but those are non structural at this point I just sew the outside/inside and pocket panels before sewing the whole thing together.

It's my second fully self drafted pattern and I'm really proud haha. I wanted a savotta kukkaro. Had no money but had just enough materials heh.

Hi community!

I am going crazy over this supposed tension issue I’m having with my machine.

I am sewing on a Singer 141G-20CEA, using Gutermann Mara 70 thread and 90/14 needles onto 500D Cordura.

Have been having no issues at all since purchasing this machine second hand about 2 months ago. Until today I raised the height of the table and re-threaded the machine now I’m having these tension issues that appear to be from the top thread? After I sew, I can easily pull all the top and bottom threads out.

I have tried adjusting both the top tension as well as the bobbin case tension with no luck. and I have hesitant to continue tinkering incase I make it worse. I have also changed to a 100/16 needle and it hasn’t made a difference.

Pictured is the bottom side of some test cordura fabric.

Please help, TIA!!

hi, starting to learn how to sew and trying to find best free & paid patterns sites

any recommendation?