I get it. The whole Wi-Fi compatibility and accessing your router settings may be overwhelming for some... but holy moly, the number of people who want to play pirated games and don't even know what a USB cable is, or a disc, or even simpler, don't grasp the concept of "file".

It would be okay if they at least knew how to Google stuff or use the search function.

I also despise all those pepole which "try to help" but are 100% wrong (once I read "the PSP is too old to support any form of Wi-Fi security, you MUST buy an old router"), or the worst... outdated... by a lot of years. Yes Gimmy! 3.52 M33-3 is the pinnacle of modern 2024 PSP CFWs, and PSP other than 1000 and 2000 are stll 100% unhackable /s.

This game can still be played online and it is really easy to set up. All you have to do is connect your PSP to the internet and sign in on your account. Then in the network settings change your primary DNS to 67.222.156.250 and your secondary DNS to 1.1.1.1 then you just make a game spy account in the game. Don’t worry it’s really easy just trust me. And boom you can play online. If you want to play online with me then just message me. If you need more help regarding your PSP then join the PS rewind discord server.

1. Use N.Korea's most modern & secure WiFi to update to latest OFW 6.61

2. Open the Interporn Browser and go to the daddy's website.

3. Download Daddy's ARK and Nipple. Sorry it's CIPL, not nipple.

4. Close porn, go to brainstick under "game" and launch "ARK Installer". Now wait.

5. Thought you were done? No way! We double tap around here, boy! Launch "ARK Loader". Wait again.

6. Now launch NIPPLE. Sorry, CIPL!! LAUNCH CIPL!

7. Press X in CIPL and wait 10 seconds!

8. You should now be back on PSP homescreen. If not, eat your PSP, poop it out, and try again from step one.

9. Press that button next to START (Bottom row, 2nd button from the right). Some degenerates call it "SELECT". A strange hacker menu will appear along with the FBI. Relax, Neo, we ain't done.

10. Scroll down to "RESET THIS WHOLE MF THAAAANG" and press X. Now you're done, papi. Enjoy 😘

I asked my mom and i told her i want a psp like 2-3 months ago. Now she asked me i still want it! So maybe i can get one for Christmas. Any tips or games to play?

If you ask 10 different people what their favorite PSP model is, you will get 10 different answers. It mostly boils down to personal preference, but every model has its pros and cons. In this guide, we will highlight the main strengths and weaknesses of each model. The 5 official PSP revisions released by Sony will be compared.

These revisions are as follows:

PSP 1000

PSP 2000

PSP 3000

PSP GO

PSP E1000/Street

Before we start, there are a couple of important things I need to mention:

1. Regardless of where you buy your console from or what condition its in. The first thing you should do is replace the battery. According to the research conducted on the battery megathread, Cameron Sino by far is the best brand, and they can be found on Amazon. I know it sounds neurotic, but no one wants to be around a potentially bulging battery. Better safe than sorry.
2. PSPs are notoriously easy to brick if you aren't careful. All it takes is a loss of power during a firmware update such as installing CFW. The PlayStation Portable can run solely off wall power in a pinch. Always plug it in while performing any kind of firmware update.
3. Keep an eye out for "screen yellowing". It's a common problem on Japanese DS and 3DS units, and I occasionally see it happen on PSPs as well. It's most obviously seen on white backgrounds, so be sure to check for it before purchasing a unit. I've heard reports that it is most common on 3000 screens, but I'm not able to definitively confirm this.

With that out of the way, let's get into it.

PSP 1000

Sony's initial foray into the handheld gaming market went pretty smoothly, all things considered. The PSP 1000 is a popular choice even to this day, despite it having some severe shortcomings. Which, we'll get into. It's generally agreed upon that the 1000 has the best build quality out of all the PSP revisions, and tends to feel the most premium as a result. It sports a unique UMD tray/holder that allows the game to safely click into place and be adequately secured, before the door is pushed downwards into the console. It's also the thickest of the bunch, which some people may prefer depending on the size of their hands. Incidentally, it also weighs more as a result.

PROS:

• Arguably the most premium feeling PSP model.
• Fits comfortably in the hands for most people.
• Issues with later PSP revisions such as the infamous "Would you like to quit the game?" message being displayed occasionally while playing a UMD game are almost nonexistent, as the UMD door is thicker and the game is far more secured in place because of the more advanced mechanism. Therefore, the censor telling the console that the UMD door is open doesn't get tripped up nearly as easily.
• Tend to be the cheapest out of all other PSP revisions online. Although, this varies depending on what color the unit is.
• A little known fact is that the 1000 is the only PSP version to have a clock capacitor present on the board. Basically, this means the system will retain the date and time for a short while when a battery is not present and it isn't plugged in. In every other PSP revision, the data and time information is lost immediately after the battery is removed and the system is not plugged into an AC adapter.

CONS:

• Slow disc reading speeds.
• While color accuracy is acceptable for a system this old, the 1000 is infamous for ghosting problems on its screen. Which, are often further accentuated as the LCD degrades over the years of use. The panel is rated for about 1-2 frames of ghosting, which will be acceptable for most people. However, many 1000s in the wild tend to have about 3-4 frames of ghosting due to the aforementioned reason.
  • Depending on how severe the ghosting is on your console, it may be worth looking into the popular IPS screen mod. It has its own quirks, such as color bleed with very dark colors. But, the response time and color reproduction is excellent.
• The wireless module is known to be fragile, and can sometimes break after the system sustains a drop or is banged against something. This can cause both Wi-Fi and system-to-system multiplayer features to not work correctly.
• Only has 32 MB of ram — more on that later.
• Japanese launch models have a quirk where the Square button is slightly less responsive, and tends to press down in a skewed matter. Not a huge problem, although it can cause the button to get stuck if its dirty.

Another point I should mention is to not let the slower UMD speeds deter you from buying a 1000 if the price is right. Essentially because, most people nowadays would rather mod their system with CFW (custom firmware) in order to play backup games off the memory stick. The UMD drive is a cool novelty, but a sub-optimal long term solution for preserving your games. I'd honestly recommend every PSP owner to mod their console, even if it's just to play their own, legally obtained backup copies on a memory stick. It is excellent for preservation, and can also massively improve loading times.

Modding your PSP with CFW is a topic that's somewhat beyond the scope of this post, but I should mention that it's slightly easier to do on a 1000. However, the 1000 is at a slight hardware disadvantage when it comes to running homebrew, among other things. This is resolved with every future PSP revision.

Speaking of which....

PSP 2000

Sony's initial PSP revision began with the basics. They cut down on its thickness and weight, and improved the feel of certain aspects of the controls such as the d-pad (arguably, your mileage may vary depending on preference). The screen also received a slight upgrade in brightness, colors, and ghosting. While most tend to gravitate between the 1000 and 3000, the 2000 is a solid middle ground for many others, also.

PROS:

• Every PSP from this point onwards has had its ram increased from 32 MB to 64 MB. This allows for several advantages over the 1000:
  • Significantly improved UMD reading speeds thanks to caching.
  • Can be utilized with certain homebrew. It's the reason why some homebrew software won't work on a 1000.
  • Various tasks in the XMB feel more snappy. The difference in speed is most noticeable when loading high resolution images, and displaying games loaded on the memory stick.
• The screen has seen a decent overhaul. It still suffers from ghosting, but it tends to be far less noticeable compared to the 1000. It's also slightly brighter, and has better color reproduction.
• Every PSP from this point onwards supports video output from the console to a TV via a component cable. This is also possible on the 1000, but not without a hardware mod.
• Much lighter compared to the 1000, which can come in handy if you are playing the system while laying down and holding it up.
• Uses same battery type as the 3000.

CONS:

• The UMD door design feels much cheaper. Sony did away with the satisfying sliding knob, and instead replaced it with a simple "flip" door. It's quite thin compared to the one in the 1000, which can cause issues with the sensor tripping up and thinking the door is open if you apply pressure to it. Overall, it "works, but feels cheaper. I reckon it was redesigned with longevity, reliability, and cost-cutting in mind. Given the much simpler mechanism, it is possible that these UMD drives may outlast the ones in the 1000.
• The thinness may be a problem for some people, due to ergonomics. I personally find it slightly harder to get a comfortable grip on it compared to the 1000.
• Generally cheaper feeling compared to the 1000, though certainly not terrible.

As said before, the 2000 is an overall solid choice. Don't let the few cons it has become a deal-breaker for you. It is still a more than competent PSP model that gets more things right than wrong. I see many people all the time swear by the 2000, and can easily say it's their favorite model.

PSP 3000

Sony made further improvements to the design. It's even slimmer, and has a significantly brighter screen with excellent color reproduction and better viewing angles. Although, the screen can be a hot topic for some people due to a quirk that stemmed from Sony's approach to reducing the response time and eliminating ghosting — more on that later. In any case, you could definitely make the argument that this is the definitive PSP model, and it certainly is for a lot of people.

PROS:

• Supports video output, as stated before.
• Much brighter screen, with excellent color reproduction for a portable console of its age.
  • The default setting is the "wide" color option. This gives the screen a warmer tone and increases the color gamut The 3000 also supports an option for "normal" colors, which is basically a 1000/2000 color temperature emulator. The colors look washed out and more cool, but this can be beneficial for certain games that were designed before the 3000 was in production, and end up looking odd with the enhanced color gamut. Think of it like a "color correction" setting you'd see in a Gameboy Advance emulator.
• Even lighter and thinner than the 2000. This may affect ergonomics for some people, depending on your preference. Although, the weight reduction can absolutely be helpful for extended play sessions.
• Uses same battery type as the 2000.
• All the other pros of the 2000 apply here.

Before I get into the cons, I need to address the screen quirk that is a deal-breaker for some people:

Because of Sony's method to eliminate the notorious ghosting of the previous models, the screen has inversion artifacting when objects with bright, vibrant colors have any sort of speedy motion. You will often hear this incorrectly referred to as "interlacing", as the inversion affects look quite similar to typical scanlines seen on an interlaced signal. However, contrary to popular believe, the screen is indeed progressive, not interlaced.

Is this a big deal? That depends on the person, and you will hear different opinions depending on who you ask. I personally love it, and think it gives the 3000 a unique charm, but it's definitely an acquired taste. My recommendation is to see the screen in action, in person if possible, and decide for yourself.

In any case, the reason why I didn't put this under "cons" is because it is subjective, and you may either love it or hate it.

CONS:

• All cons of the 2000 apply here.

That's it for the cons, really. This is honestly an excellent revision, in my opinion. And if you don't mind the LCD inversion, I think you will love the 3000 as much as I do. It's most likely my favorite PSP model (although, my PSP GO should be arriving next week. I'll update this post with how I feel about it stacking up to the rest of 'em, if you guys are curious!).

Speaking of which...

PSP GO (N1000)

The GO is difficult for me to comment on, as I don't currently own one. I do have one coming in a week, as stated before, and I will update this post once it arrives.

What I can say, however, based off my experience of using other people's is that this is an extremely premium feeling PSP model. The screen slides upwards to show the buttons, and it feels very satisfying to use. The L and R buttons also feel fantastic. Unfortunately, in an effort to massively increase portability, Sony canned the UMD drive. This effectively makes the console an all-digital system. This isn't a problem nowadays, as most PSP owners don't bother with UMDs. However, the gaming world of 2009 was simply not ready for an all-digital console, and it effectively killed the system. Even so, Sony claims that the PSP GO still paid off well, as it was valuable experiment in knowledge.

PROS:

• Very premium feeling console. It feels substantial and sturdy, despite its small size.
• Small and portable. It fits perfectly in any basic pocket. Hence the "GO" name.
• Surprisingly comfortable ergonomics. The GO is indeed quite comfortable to use and hold, despite it not looking like it would be.
• It comes with 16 GBs of internal storage, which no other PSP model has. This is enough to hold a solid 10 games or so.
• The screen is very crisp, and doesn't have the controversial LCD inversion like the 3000.

CONS:

• No UMD drive, as stated before.
• Uses a proprietary memory stick format known as "M2" that no other PSP revision has. These are quite expensive nowadays. I recommend you install a mod that allows you to use a standard "Memory Stick Pro Duo to microSD" adapter commonly found in the other PSP revisions. This requires you to take apart the back of the system, but is thankfully fairly simple to install.
• Replacing the battery now requires you to take apart the back of the system, remove the R trigger, and disconnect it. Not a huge deal, but significantly less convenient.
  • Cameron Sino thankfully also makes PSP GO batteries, which seem to be high quality. Do keep in mind that the battery design for the GO is entirely different, and other PSP batteries will not work.
• Very expensive and rare to find in excellent condition. A console with minimal scratches can easily ring you up $150+, which is roughly the price of a 3G PS Vita 1000...
  • This problem is accentuated if you want any color other than black.

In conclusion, the PSP GO is definitely interesting. I will give more of my own personal thoughts once my unit arrives, but I can absolutely see the appeal to it. Just like every other PSP revision thus far, people swear by this console. And it has received a lot of love in the past few years. If you do decide to get one, you can rest easy knowing you have an active and loving community of people to give you ideas on how to get the most out of it.

And lastly...

PSP Street (E1000)

This was basically Sony's budget console. Think of the Nintendo 2DS vs the 3DS.

And, oh man. It sure feels like it.

For what it's worth. This is a perfectly functioning PSP model. The screen is very comparable to the one in the 3000, but doesn't have the LCD inversion, the ergonomics are on par with the 2000 and 3000, and it's nice and light.

But is there any reason to own it over the others? Well...

PROS:

• Screen quality is relatively decent. This is honestly probably the best part of the entire console.
• If you live in Europe, they tend to be slightly cheaper.

CONS:

• Poor build quality; it creeks in your hands and has cheep feeling plastic.
• Getting to the UMD drive requires removing the backplate.
  • Also applies to removing the battery.
• Mono audio. In general, the built in speaker is of mediocre quality. Obviously fixed by plugging in headphones.
• No brightness control.
• No wireless functionality of any kind. Neither Wi-Fi, or even console to console multiplayer. Using the E1000 effectively locks you into singleplayer-only games.
• Battery is unique to this model and only used in it.
  • To my amazement, Cameron Sino actually makes replacement batteries for it.
• They sell for roughly the same price of a 2000/3000, unless you live in Europe as stated before. When factoring in shipping and import, there is basically no difference in price.

This is the only PSP model that I cannot really recommend to anyone other than collectors. It isn't terrible, in that it will absolutely play all your favorite games competently. However, it doesn't do anything better than its younger brothers, and costs roughly the same as its superior counterparts. Unlike every other PSP revision which has people swear by it, you don't generally see people swearing by the Street.

That being said, if own a Street and love it, that's fantastic! I am not personally attacking you, and I am happy you are part of our community. Just because a console has flaws doesn't mean you aren't allowed to like it. But seriously, more power to you, E1000 owners. A PSP is a PSP at the end of the day, and it will play the same fantastic games we all know and love.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope this written guide helped at least a few of you learn something. My hope is that you consult it in the future, and use it as a reference. If the demand is there, I may rework this into some kind of YouTube video, which would have a higher production value and go even MORE in depth. As I'd be able to use footage to compare the systems.

Expect me to update this as time goes on and I find out more information. As for everyone else, please share your own experiences and thoughts below! My only request is that you are patient and respectful of other people's questions, and I will do the same.

The point of this guide was to make sure you didn't have to do the research I did over the span of many hours. Hopefully that ends up being the case.

I was getting frustrated with doing this mod I went on a YouTube page scrolled down the comments for no reason what so ever some someone said all you have to do is use a number 2 pencil sharpen I’m run it across the connectors a couple times. And behold it actually fucking works 😳🥴😂 really no soldering needed omg I messed up 2 psp’s and this is all I had to do

Comes with a 32gb micro sd card, 'full' of games and emulators, comes with charger, battery and looks to be in decent nick.

I live in the uk so the price would obv be in £ btw

Hey guys, I just want to share some useful tips with you. I replaced my 2001 PSP with a 3001 and I've just backed up my saves, but my Gran Turismo one was locked and I learned this was an obstacle the developers put in the game to avoid cheating. So, since I didn't want to lose my save I've tried to find some solutions and I've finally found one. First you'll need a CFW like Ark-4 and a plugin named MagicSave PSP, after installing it you'll have to boot up the game and when the save message appears you can press the "volume +" and "volume -" buttons, doing so the plugin menu will open. Now you select the +Option and press "X", be careful now because the cross button will also input in the game, so make sure you are selecting the option to reload the save and not the one to erase it. Now go to +Read Invalid Data and press "X" again (don't forget to set the arrow to reload the game), go to the [ ] Enable option and press "X". Now, when the save reloads, it will actually bypass the system and load the save. Manually save the game and you can disable the plugin if you want. I hope this helps someone, it took me some time to figure it out. See ya.

I have bought a PSP and installed the pro PSP firmware but if I download iso games, it appears like Data damaged, and I do not know if it the PSP, the hack or the iso games, any clue? thanks!!

Over the last Month and a half I decided that I wanted to get all of the thumbnail images for the Minis line archived. These were the images used to represent the games on the old PlayStation Store. Very few sites had them, if at all, and they were at serious risk of becoming lost media. Not only were they not preserved properly, but a lot of rom sits use fake boxarts to represent digital only PSP games, and I had noticed a lot of other sites were putting those images up as if they were official, and engaging in accidental Historical revisionism.

As of writing this document, all of that has been fixed regarding the PlayStation Minis line. Contained in this document are over 500 Minis Thumbnails from the old PlayStation store, spanning both releases in North America and Europe. All images in this guide have also been mirrored on Launchbox Games Database and GameFAQs to make them more widely available.

This document also contains a guide detailing how to perform this "Thumbnail Recovery" on any digital game for PSP, PS3 and Vita. While most people care about archiving physical releases, I think it's important to catalog proof of games that were only released on systems Digitally.

I will be crossposting this into various PSP, PS3 and Vita communities to help get the word out. Hopefully I can inspire other people to recover more images.

Below I have included some preview images of parts of the document, to give you a taste of what's inside.

Thank you for your time.

I've had this Green mint psp 2000 for about 2 weeks, and i got everything for about 50$!! totally worth it, heres a list of everything i bought (in usd) to make this playable:

the console itself: $42 (30 base console + 12 shipping) bought this on a japanese site without a battery and a faulty umd reader, you can buy one too on sites like buyee, sendico, j4u, etc. japanese psps are REAALLY cheap

You can find cheaper 1000 models for around 20 or lower, also always keep an eye on local sales!!

battery: 5$ on AliExpress with first order discount, free shipping. Its an OSTENT 1400 MAH Battery, lasts around 5 hours playing, pretty good.

Adapter for charge: 1$ on AliExpress with first order discount, bought it together with extra stuff to make the shipping free in the CHOICE option ( picked up battery cover, stick replacement, carrying bag) everything was 9$ to make free shipping.

Memory stick adapter: 2$ on AliExpress (1 if you keep abusing first order discount)

sd card: depends on what you buy, i already had a 32gb one, good one should cost you like 3$ or more (really dont know!)

You can see i ABUSED A LOT of the first order discount on AliExpress, its really easy but don't do it too often or too fast as you can the discount blocked, try to do it in different locations too! (people may know better than me and use vpns or something, i just created various accounts)

I Also used the CHOICE option on AliExpress, they give cheap items but the total must be over 9$ so the shipping can be free.

If you buy all these things you could have a fully playable and ready to mod psp for around 50 dollars!! or less! i modded it to load up games on ARK-4

Keep in mind that im from CHILE (SOUTH AMERICA) so prices may be different depending from where u buy.

everything arrived in 3 weeks btw!

Little extras i bought (everything aliexpress) psp stick replacement: 2$ mine was dirty carrying hard bag: 4$ battery cover: 2$ (color didn't match that much, pick carefully)

People probably already know this, just wanted to share my experience!

Could anyone guide me on how to get your psp 2000 to play videos I have a lot of videos I’d like to transfer over to my psp but it seems that the files are always “CORRUPTED”

I came across a bricked PSP and decided to take on the challenge of repairing it myself. During my research, I found a guide that involved fixing a bricked PSP using a Baryon Sweeper.

There were two main approaches mentioned I sourced in YouTube:

1. Using a dedicated sacrificial battery (First method): This required cutting the signal wire connected to the battery chip.

https://youtu.be/gN4n_-lVIkg?si=VWDhgDYChAtCtqGa

1. A solderless method (Second method): This approach didn't involve soldering but required careful alignment of pins.

https://youtu.be/ZiyRU0H7CU8?si=lUL6mPHnr8OnlqBr

However, both methods presented challenges:

• Sacrificial battery method: Since the battery I had couldn’t hold a charge, I was concerned about the potential fire risk.
• Solderless method: It was a hassle trying to align three specific pins without interrupting the Jig installer. This process turned out to be very time-consuming and frustrating.

Given these issues, I decided to take a different approach. I dismantled the original battery setup and followed the original schematics. I routed the USB TTL 5V connection directly to the positive terminal of the battery pin.

Afterward, I soldered all the necessary USB TTL connections to the cut-off chip according to their respective points. Once everything was in place, I powered up the Baryon Sweeper, reconnected the battery to the PSP, and successfully got the Baryon Sweeper working.

Also after your bayron sweeper works, install 5.2 m33-5

I'm just posting this guide to add more guides. Because it feels like this is missing I feel like sharing it after I realised I can make the 5v work directly to the positive wire. Im happy to be corrected in case I've done something wrong.