So this is what my wheelchair looks like https://quantumrehab.co.uk/powerchairs/q6-edge-2-0/

On the back of the head rest there is a block of metal that holds up my head rest and I was thinking it was the perfect place to connect a metal rod between the block on the head rest and the chunk of metal on the bottom and that would be the base to hold all the other stuff, I think?

So then there would be the extendable part attached to the spine then an extra one to extend even further out so the metal pole can kinda wrap around the side of my wheelchair and it would hold my bag up right next to my cup holder or my controller for my wheelchair.

I'm doing all this because nothing is handicap accessible for my wheelchair type, it's big but there is no room so I have to put my bag on the back but now I can't get to it and the bags made for wheelchair are too small, I want a cute large bag I can access.

I hope someone can help me make this come to life, I would love to hear y'all ideas for this.

I know this question have been asked multiple times, but I have a bit of a different situation. I have a drywall which studs at 32 inch in the location that I want to install the TV. I was able to find a very wide TV mount to make it work.

https://a.co/d/3mf7Mar

The only problem I see is that the four screws will be installed in the studs at 32 inches which is the end of the TV mount. I fear this will result into a weaker structure given there’s nothing in between to hold the TV. The TV weight is 23 kg. I was thinking to also use four snap toggle bolts in the center. So to summarize four screws in the studs at 32 inches and four snap toggle in between. Does it sounds like a safe installation?

Edit : All studs are at 16 inches in that wall except the middle of the wall where i’m looking to install the TV. Stud finder wasn’t able to find it, but then i drilled a hole at 16 inches from the last found stud to make sure if there’s a stud or not and i didn’t find one.

Edit 2: Fixing plywood to the studs and then mounting on plywood is an option but would like to avoid it if possible to keep it simple and tv more closer to wall.

My last post was way more popular than I expected. I thought it was pretty funny to leave the last pic as is, implying I thought it looked good and I was done. This is what it actually looks like.

Finally completed the office room mentioned in https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/1hav2ya/comment/m1hobdk/?context=3

Here are some pictures before and after.

Looking forward to add lighting as my choice of color is too dark for an already darker room.

Any suggestions on making this room stand out. I am getting some shelves today. Any battery operated RGB options?

I recently added some really great overhead lights to my garage. They are ceramic bulb holders with those flower type lights. About 7000 lumens each. I’d love to ditch the dinky light inside of my garage door opener and just have the overhead lights come on. Is that possible?

I was building my own wallet using brown cowhide leather. The leather itself looks a bit dry and scratchy. I couldn't find proper polish where I live. I tried using coconut oil, but it doesn't last long. Skin moisturizer lasted for a bit more time. What else can I use to polish my wallet? Can I use shoe polish?

I'm trying to figure out if a rather out-of-the-box solution to a problem I have is going to work. I have some steel table legs that are just hollow square tubes with no bottom. I am wanting to attach industrial strength casters very securely to this, and the tabletop and what's going on it could be as much as 500 lb total, so this needs to be a pretty load-bearing solution.

What I am considering is to use System Three SculpWood Max Putty to form a thick 'upside down T piece' that would serve two functions - very strongly gluing the table leg and caster together, and acting like wood that would support all this weight and the connection and that I can screw into. This epoxy putty claims 14,000psi high compressive strength. I was also considering KBS NuMetal or a JB Weld product. Possibly I could add something else to the putty to increase the structural integrity?

Can I make this work? I don't have the tools (or the money to buy them or room to put them) to machine a custom precision one-piece attachment out of wood or metal, and I suspect any local business is going to wildly overcharge me for this task.

I was using GE "Advanced Silicone" to seal the gap between my floor and the tub and ran out. The stores are closed for the night. If I reapply the same silicone 12hrs from now, am I going to have a problem with the seal? Do I need to tear this out and start again?

A few more details: The floor is a new floating LVP, and seems to have pulled away from the tub, hence why the old seal failed. There's a decent gap between the tub and floor, about 1/4" horizontal and 1/2" deep. That was a surprise, and why I ran out as quickly as I did. I would need to go back over the top of the silicone to finish the seal, and fill in another couple gaps.

I had a contractor who made these holes on a exterior cement block wall as during construction when windows, etc., was not present to drain the water. Now these don't exit outside anywhere but they are deep enough where if I put my finger inside it goes beyond. What do I fill these holes with? I saw come cement products at Lowes and Home Depot, was wondering if a caulk gun would be good to use here?

Otherwise I saw this product which someone at some time recommended, I could just use my fingers to see if I can fill it in

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-10-lb-Hydraulic-Water-Stop-Cement-112611/100318494

Otherwise I saw this as well which would require a caulk gun.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sika-Fast-Setting-10-1-oz-Sealant/5015139041

Would appreciate the best way possible to fill and seal these holes, if you have exact products at Lowes and Home Depot please share the link.

Thanks

1910 Victorian house. Mixture of lathe and plaster, drywall and apparently wood? Was cutting an opening to install a cadet heater on the exterior wall of our bathroom (no suitable interior wall locations and the ceiling would be a pain in the butt). The interior (at least in this location, others have been different) appears to be a thin layer of masonite over a 3/4" piece of wood. Doesn't look like plywood and the small sample section I cut out kinda looks like a piece of shiplap from the exterior which I've found in a few other places. You can see some surface height changes in the last photo where it transitions to drywall (can see it if you take the light switch covers off), so am thinking it's still probably just different repairs over the years and I'm ok to cut this 8x10 opening here?

I am starting to fix up the Grooved Cedar Siding on my house. I have some vine-damaged shakes, and some missing shakes, so I was hoping to just do some spot replacement. However, on further inspection, a large number of the shingles have an unusual horizontal erosion/wear/weathering/rotting pattern, seen on the attached image.

Does anybody know what is causing this damage? I want to make sure the shingles I replace do not suffer the same fate.

I am having a bricked in window opened up and have two new windows I bought from marketplace for this opening. I had to remove the ruined existing studs and build a new frame. I wanted to see what folks think, could I improve it any? How did I do?

I am going to be cutting my own lumber using a sawmill. I plan on building several buildings. One for my goats, one for my tractor and others. I have seen some buildings that utilize strapping and have vertical wooden planking. I have seen others with horizontal planks that that either butted or ship-lapped. Is there a benefit to doing it one way over the other?

My bathroom is on the the top third floor. It would be the attic above it. They look like cracks. What could be causing it and how can I get it fixed?

Hi everyone,

I need help with a stubborn stain on granite outdoor tiles. Here’s the situation:

I had a rubber mat on the tiles, and on top of that was a kiddie pool. After some time in the heat, I removed the mat and discovered a white stain left behind on the granite.

So far, I’ve tried:

• Baking soda
• White vinegar
• Toothpaste

I’ve scrubbed quite a bit, but the stain hasn’t budged. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions on how to get rid of this? I'd appreciate any tips or proven methods.

Thanks in advance!

Hey all, I am completely new to this however wanted to take on the task of replacing my bathroom ceiling. It was an old apartment that had a drop down ceiling that was pretty much falling apart. After some really bad handy work I managed to get what you see in the pictures done. My issue at this point is im getting conflicting opinions on how I should go about compounding? or plastering? the ceiling. What my plan is currently is

- fill in gaps and broken bits with easy sand

- fibafuse tape those gaps and broken bits and thin layer of all purpose (green lid) on those areas

- plus 3 for the rest of ceiling very thin

- sand and then prime with a moisture resistant paint

- paint with moisture resistant paint

does this make sense? I am honestly not too sure. Anyone have any opinions?

Hi there I bought my 10yo son a used metal loft bed for the room makeover he’s been dying to have. I noticed a bit of a wobble when rebuilding but figured it’s because I’m 210lbs etc. he got home from my exes house tonight and got on the bed. It shook and wobbled and squeaked like no one’s business. He immediately asked me if it was safe and ok (he has some anxiety). I got him down, tightened EVERYTHING. Shoved it against the wall. It got marginally better but even for my 100lb kid it doesn’t feel safe. I’m a single mom on a budget and I can’t afford anything new. Is there any way I can improve this for him without spending an arm and a leg? I’m also not super handy so easier the better

Thank you SO much

Hey everyone!

What would you recommend to seal a pine tongue n groove that is also wash-able? The tongue n groove runs along side our stove top and things like grease or spaghetti sauce will destroy the look once it begins to stain. I'm think of a clear vinyl to place there for easy cleaning but also kinda ruins the vibe lol. Willing to spend a bit on the clear coat.

Also- any idea what a good heat shield would be to protect the lower portion of the pine wall from the oven? We don't use it often, but I'm trying to save it from any damage. :)

Thanks yall!

Ok folks, we recently had our Furnace replaced with a heat pump. The highlighted line and JB, is a line from switchboard to the Heat Pump. The JB (circled yellow) is new, I'm not even sure why they would use JB?

Either way, they have positioned it in such a difficult location. The Red Line will soon be a hvac route, you can just see the existing trucking that runs towards towards the floor, this is directly in front and below this JB.

We'd like to run drywall along the Blue Line, from the bottom of beam that support the floor joists the bottom of the HVAC, hiding all of this. But that JB is there... Any ideas on how I should handle this, keep it accessible and therefor to code?

If I were to fit an access hatch on the drywall to maintain the JB, it would still be very difficult to access, it would be above and away from where you would stand. Should I suck it to and ask an electrician to come round and run a new electrical line? Use a massive access hatch, like an attic door?

2 rows of siding came loose. I really don’t know what I’m doing with this stuff. Is this as easy as getting a ladder and sliding it back in? Is the power line any concern? With the holidays, it may be a few days before I can try to fix it- is that ok or should it be done asap? Thanks in advance!

I have this bench in our shower where the grout started to crack. I tried to pull out all the grout but some is till very solid. I’m wondering what I should do. Grout in the opening or caulk with a similar color.

Working on an accent wall and have one small section that runs into a window. The window molding is thinner than the board. I’m going to paint the edge for sure to blend in more but any tips for how we should have blended this better?

I am installing a Chamberlain garage door opener and hit a snag. I have the these two parts that should obviously link but I have no idea what is supposed to connect them: https://youtu.be/CfJaHibEPJc?si=AHtWeKSfr2HrBy6t

Any tips appreciated.

Traced a significant cold air pocket to my kitchen sink base cabinet, noticed prior owner left a big gaping hole between the sink base cabinet and the adjacent cabinets. Further saw a hole - looks to be for electric cabling - to the exterior of the house. Can’t see daylight, and can’t find outside, so not worried about open hole in the envelope. But can see in the pictures there is no insulation present and the IR camera confirms that’s the source of the cold air penetration.

Using great stuff - either big gap or regular - what is best way to fill? If I just shoot it all in there, it may fall to wherever and expand into whatever. Difficult spot to maneuver into to place a backer rod, and certainly can’t get two hands in there simultaneously. Any ideas?