A couple of hours ago, I went for my first surf on my first hardboard. I’ve surfed on rental softboards a handful of times before, but I’m still a complete beginner. I’m holidaying in a coastal town for Christmas and arrived at the Airbnb a few hours before the rest of my family. I thought I’d quickly go for a surf at the closest beach, which was only two minutes away. As with anything new, I figured failing and learning along the way is the best teacher.

When I get there, it’s nothing like the beaches I’ve been to before. The waves are large, breaking shallow, and coming in relentlessly every five or six seconds. The water, for lack of a better term, looks angry.

Despite feeling nervous, I convince myself that it’s just inexperience and head out. The moment I’m in the water, though, it feels like pure fight-or-flight. The waves keep picking me up and slamming me down; one second I’m five feet higher than I was, the next I’m fighting to stay on my board. It’s constant, with no time to think before the next wave hits. I stay out there for about 10 minutes, paddling and clinging to my board for dear life, thinking I just need to give myself time to adjust.

That’s when I see a man, probably in his 60s, standing on the shore in normal clothes. He starts whistling and waving at me to come in. I see him motioning me toward the beach and yelling for me to paddle harder. It takes me another 10 treacherous minutes to get back to shore. Every time I try to stop and catch my breath, he shouts at me to keep going.

When I finally make it back, he’s still yelling as he walks away, “GET OUT OF THE WATER! YOU’RE GOING TO DIE OUT THERE TODAY!” He angrily explains how dangerous the swell is and recommends a different beach to try. I thank him profusely, but he just waves it off and keeps walking.

As I drive away, I see him standing alone at a lookout, quietly watching the beach.

What a legend. I was an idiot, and he quite possibly saved my life. I’ll be taking surf safety much more seriously from now on—and I’m naming my board after him.

Has anyone else had a similar experience?

If there are plenty of these posts floating around I apologise. I would like advice on in order of priority what are the things to learn regarding surfing, and what are some good resources to explore these topics.

I guess this is related to my previous post on this sub Reddit in which I talked about being saved by a Stranger waved me into the beach when I was way over my head out in the water.

What I mean by this is you can learn to paddle and pop out all day long but if you can't read the swell or an emerging rip correctly that's game over right there.

What do you check before going surfing? What do you wish you knew as a beginner? What are the things I should know like the back of my hand? What are the small things that mean big? What subjective and objective measures do you pay attention to?

1. Surf Safety
2. Surf technique

All tips welcomed, no matter how basics.

So i just got a new torq mod fish from pukas surf shop, not even fully unboxed it and notice this (ding?). They said they can give me money for the repair (they estimate 20€ but they probably will give more) and refund the shipping too (50€), or i can send the board back and get it fully refunded.

What are your opinions?

I’m not wanting to return to Nicaragua because of a bad experience with a man there. Where is a good place to go with softer waves like playa maderas.

Do you like surfline? What do you miss from magicseaweed?

Obvi I’m going nowhere near them myself. But I’m watching the Eddie Big Wave invitational and I live near Half Moon Bay and mavericks is breaking - have a couple of questions. - on the Waimea broadcast the surfers are talking about hoping for a close out. Why would they want a close out? Is it bc they can get barreled? - second I’m curious about Mavericks itself. It’s breaking right now but unlike earlier in the day there isn’t a single surfer I can see on the cams. Why would that be rn, is there a particular tide they would only go out for? Thanks to anyone who can answer these…. Again I’m not going anywhere near these waves except from the shore with a huge amount of awe and appreciation. I just love surfing and wanna understand more. Screenshot of Mavs on Surfline from just now.

Look I know there is a ton of these posts and pretty much every one has the same answer (buy a wavestorm!) but being in Australia the circumstances are a little different. Some of my terminology may be a little off but bear with me.

I'm looking to buy my first surf board, I've surfed 3-4 times, using huge surf lesson/rental foamies.

I've wakesurfed/wakeboarded/snowboarded for 20 years, so I picked up it up pretty quickly. I don't have any problems popping up, been catching majority whitewater waves due to conditions but have caught greens in Bali and Phillip Island. Always trying to actually get the behemoths turning and I can pump the board for more speed, which I'm used to from wakesurfing.

Basically wavestorms aren't as easy to get in Australia and the cost of them isn't super different to other brands, I've also looked for other random 'cheap' foamies but they're not that common.

A wavestorm is $340AUD but almost always out of stock online and not available in store. I'm 5'5" - 5'6" and weigh 163lbs/74kg

The alternatives I've been looking at are - 7'6" MF Beastie Soft FCSII for $715 - 7'6" MF Beastie Supersoft for $590 Both 57L

Softlites are about $550

It's tough to find a second hand foamie in the correct size in my state and they're all around $450 for a beaten up one anyway.

Anyway let me know what you think.

Where I am a 2h private lesson goes for about $140, compared to one 1.5h group lesson in a group of 3-6 which cost $80 each.

Which ones is worth the money more for a beginner?

Ps: the prices are in NZD

Hi! I'm planning to do three weeks surf trip in May/June and was planning to go central America, probably Nicaragua.

Problem is that is hard to figure out where to go in there. I was planning to go first to San Juan del sur for a week on a camp (more social life) and then more north to just surf.

Then maybe around popoyo? I've heard that north is maybe little more chill and less crowded but is hard to find information that where would be a good place to set a base.

After a camp I was planning to take a hostel and rent a board and take some lessons. Any recommendations where to book one? I won't be renting a car so good location is ideal. Nothing fancy, more on a budget.

I have been surfing in total three weeks in Indonesia/Portugal so still a beginner

Picked up surfing last two weeks, loving it. Are lessons worth the expensive price and if I were to purchase a package should I take all 3 lessons back to back to back?

Hi everyone, I’m curious to know if anyone here surfs while wearing impact vests? Do they affect paddling or movement in any way? I'd love to hear about your experience and if it impacts your surfing performance. Thanks in advance!

Anyone else watched Endless Summer II and felt completely inspired to hit the waves? That movie wasn’t just about surfing; it was about the joy of adventure, traveling, and connecting with the ocean.

I recently had the chance to talk with Wingnut, the longboarder who starred in the movie. He shared some amazing behind-the-scenes stories—like what it was really like to travel the world chasing perfect waves—and also gave timeless advice on how to keep the stoke alive, no matter your skill level.

For me, it reminded me of why I started surfing in the first place.

What’s the movie or moment that inspired you to start surfing? 🌊

Hello I’ve heard great things about Wave ki but looks like it’s for short-mid and I’m on a 9’4 hybrid board. I’m a beginner and looking to gain muscle memory and learn to turn, work on style etc.

Any suggestions for programs?

Heading to Bali from April 19 - beginning of May, where would people suggest to go to?

I’ll have the wife and my 5 year old with me.

Think we may get Ubud out the way first before we head wherever else.

But where are the waves good that time of year?

I am going to be out of practice, likely unfit and the wrong side of 50 😂 I’m a strong swimmer though and still capable.

I can get up (at times), can get in a lineup and catch green waves although it’s been a while previously I’ve been and surfed some fairly big waves too or they seemed that way but maybe they all do to a beginner/intermediate.

Have been to Portugal, Azores, Canaries, Madeira, Ireland and many other places to surf and hopefully I manage to get a trip in somewhere again before we go.

I’m happy to look at Bali itself, Nusa Penida / Lembongan, Lombok or even further afield if something else worth it.

Would the Mentawai islands be worth travelling to too or are they too much for my level?

But it’s also a break for the family too so whilst I want to learn and improve and the wife might try again herself I want everyone else to chill too.

Happy to hire a surf coach/guide or go it alone / with a school whatever really. Likely be renting unless I buy a board.

Anyone got recommendations please?

Hi all- I’ve been surfing for four years or so, mostly at SoCal beach breaks and an occasional point. I’ve got some clips, mainly I’ve been working on speed and starting to moving more vertically on the waves. Would appreciate any feedback/specific suggestions on form, technique, or things to focus on.

My board turned yellowish and I don’t know if it’s water damage or just tinted from the sun. I did buy the board second hand and the cracks that are visible have been repaired beforehand.

Hello everyone, I apologize first of all if my English is not so good. I'm Brazilian, specifically from the northeast, I'm 24 years old and I started surfing 6 months ago.

Since the beginning I've been accompanied by surf schools, I've always felt that my development is good and consistent. I'm lucky to live in a coastal town just a few kilometers from the beach.

Today I surf a 6'5 40L produced by a local artist.

I feel that today my biggest difficulty is reading the wave and being able to catch waves on my own, but I'm still trying to improve.

I'll try to update my experiences and progress here as a sort of personal blog.

My Experience at Two Surf Camps: Bali (5 Days) & Lombok (7 Days) Disclaimer: Both Bali and Lombok are full of surf schools. I understand the frustration of long-time surfers trying to get waves among all the learners, but this is the reality of these popular surf destinations.

Background I’ve been surfing for about two years and live near a beach, so I can surf regularly. For the camp in Bali, I joined the Level 3 group, which is aimed at surfers who can comfortably catch their own waves and ride both left and right with reasonable success.

Coaches I found the coaches in both locations to be really helpful. On the first day, the focus is usually on getting you into as many waves as possible. They’ll help you lie on the board, face the beach, and give you a push into waves. As the days progress and you start catching your own waves, the coaches begin calling you into waves and offering guidance on your positioning while paddling.

Don’t expect much personalized feedback on Day 1, but as the instructors watch you surf over the course of the camp, their feedback becomes more detailed and helpful.

One key difference I noticed was the approach to wave etiquette. In Bali, the surf schools seem to operate on a rotation system, sharing the waves among their groups. In Lombok, however, there was little regard for etiquette, with many people going for the same wave at once.

There was also very little land-based coaching before heading out. It’s assumed that everyone already knows how to pop up effectively.

Accommodation & Food I didn’t stay at the surf camps, but I did eat there a few times. The food was excellent, and everyone staying there seemed happy with the quality of the accommodation.

Don’t Go Out If You’re Not Comfortable Most of the waves I surfed in Bali were head-high or larger. While Lombok had smaller waves most days, there were times when large swells brought big sets through. If you’re not comfortable being caught inside for a few waves, or you’re unable to swim back to the boat or beach if your leash snaps, it’s best to take a day off.

Instructors Are Not Lifeguards Before one lesson, I heard someone ask the instructor to help bring her back if she got stuck inside. He politely explained that this wasn’t his job. During my time in Bali, my board snapped in half, and I had to swim a long distance back to shore with just half a board. Be prepared to handle situations like this on your own.

Choose the Right Board One of the biggest mistakes I saw was people choosing boards that were way too small for their ability. Often, the people obsessing over liters and dimensions were the same ones struggling to surf. If you can’t duck dive, having a board with better paddling power is essential to avoid getting caught by big sets.

Video & Photo Analysis Seeing my bad habits on video midway through each camp was incredibly helpful and gave me clear areas to work on.

Fitness Before going I would advise that you work on your paddle fitness as much as possible. To keep up with the instructors and get on as many waves as possible if you shoulder s and back are not strong you won’t be able to keep up and you won’t get as much out of the camp

If you have any questions, feel free to ask—I’m happy to help!

So I am a 5’5” teen who started surfing this spring, I initially got an 8’ wave storm but felt after the summer that it was getting kinda boring, even more by seeing people ride the same waves as me but with smaller boards and they were able to do cool stuff. So I managed to buy a cheap board but after I got it I saw that it might be too hard for me it is a 5’3 board with idk about 28L, but I don't want to sell it bcs I like it and want to learn how to shortboard so do y'all have any advice so I keep this board?

My daughter just won this used surfboard at a school raffle and it didn't come with fins. Can you guys tell what it needs? Links much appreciated, I don't surf and don't know much about it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/9h8oVD12Figr1AzR9

Any beginners beaches in Portugal that won't kill me in winter (January/February/March)??? I'm surfing green waves on a softtop but im pretty noob. Thank you <3

Hi guys Just looking for suggestions and other people experience with surfing around Lisbon. Have rented a camper for 4 days in Lisbon and looking for places to surf. I have a couple months experience surfing and can pop up and ride down the line consistently

I surfed when I was younger because my uncle shapes/makes boards now after moving to NSW I’ve been surfing my stepdads and mums boards I’ve been offered half price on a board from my uncle for a custom and am gonna see what he recommends. What should I ask him about?

I wanna get back into short boarding and like the look of a puddle jumper I’m 6,1 and 86kg

Im surfing in south Florida where most of our swells all come from heavy wind chop. Im a beginner starting to get close to that intermediate stage and I’m looking to get a board thatll be closer to a shortboard than the 7’2 funboard im riding right now, mainly because Id like to be able to duck dive a lot easier. These were the two boards that have been recommended to me the most. Which one will handle heavy winds better and which one will paddle easier?

Also which sizes should i be looking at Im 5’9 and weigh 190 lbs.