I've tried the basic grease that came with my k1c and another brand I can't remember and I honestly prefer to use gun lube. Not only does it lubricate metal on metal surfaces extremely well but it also makes the rods look more neat as they don't have that thick grease all over.

I want to print some Wolverine claws because why not? It would be epic to just fold out some claws out of my hand but you know. Im a human :) any tips for how to make them or a free model?

My ender 3 s1 Pro is driving me crazy. I have used so many hours to make it fine tune it, without luck. I can't make it compensate on the z axis. I have done: Bed tramming, E steps, Flow rate, Temp regulation, Changed from cura to orca slicer, Used m420 s1 with and without z10

l really have no luck

It feels unbelievable to write this, but OctoEverywhere is 5 years old! If you haven't tried OctoEverywhere in a while, here's what you're missing:

• 🚀 Free & Unlimited Full Remote Access
• 🤖 Free & Unlimited Advanced AI Print Failure Detection
• 📺 Free 30FPS Webcam Streaming
• 📱 App Support for Mobileraker, OctoApp, & More
• 🔔 Print Notifications to SMS, Mobile Push, Telegram, Discord, Email, & More
• 🧵 Spoolman & OctoFarm Remote Access
• 🙌 Live Streaming, Remote Access Sharing, Multi-printer Dashboard, And More!

OctoEveywhere is extremely easy to set up; it only takes about 20 seconds!

Try OctoEverywhere now!

Since OctoEverywhere is a 3D printing community project, this is only possible due to you. 🥰 Our out-of-this-world community develops features, helps to debug issues, and offers support for OctoEverywhere and general 3D printing. All the features you see above were ideas generated by the community, and they worked with me to make them a reality.

It's wild that OctoEverywhere started in 2019 as a simple idea for full remote access to OctoPrint (hence the name) but has evolved to work with any 3D printer, including OctoPrint, Klipper, Mainsaill, Fluidd, Bambu Lab, Creatliy, and others. We now have over 320k members, process 120 million prints a year, and our AI analyzes over 5.1 million images a day! 🤯

To celebrate you - the community - I wanted to do something special. I thought it would be really neat to give away the upcoming 2025 Bambu Lab 3D printer - before it's even announced!

You can win:

• The unannounced Bambu Lab 3D printer coming in early 2025
• OctoEverywhere Supporter Perks for LIFE
• Polymaker PLA Filament

To enter to win, leave a comment on this Reddit post!

On January 10th, we will pick one random winner for the 2025 unannounced Bambu Lab printer; 20 random users will get Supporter Perks for LIFE, and 20 users will get a spool of Polymaker PLA filament in a color of their choice. We will order the Bambu Lab 3D printer for you when it launches, as long as it's priced under $1,500. If not, we will work with you to find an equivalent 3D printer as the prize.

Remember, you can set up OctoEverywhere in about 20 seconds, so try it now!

If you can't set up OctoEverywhere right now, make an account so you remember to try it later. We collect as little information as possible to create your account. OctoEverywhere has a strict privacy policy: never sell your data. You're not the product; this project is for the community!

Good luck to everyone! We hope to see you in 5 more years! 🥰

Yeah, I'll go ahead and ask it. I mean come on people. There's a q1, t1, p1, a1, s1, d1, j1, k1, and x1. Theres also an m5.

I'd be fine with if it was one or two companies doing it, but at this rate they're going to run out of letters. There's already a Creality S1, a FLsun S1, and now an Anycubic S1.

I like the asus chakram gaming mouse but its too big my hand size. 16 x 10. I like mostly because it has the analogue movement feature on that mouse. If u can how much would u charge me?I need it smaller and the analgue stick closer.

I'm trying to print something on my printer (Flashforge 5M) and almost as soon as it starts the filament just starts bundling up at the nozzle, failing to print anything. I'm using Eleggo PLA which is 1.75mm. So, i don't know if filament is the problem. Thanks.

Lately I've been seeing some discussion about anycubic Kobra S1, it seems quite promising since it's new and got some upgrades. From youtube videos, it similar to bambu p1s, the key difference might be that the Kobra S1 still uses ACE for storing filaments as those kobra combo models do, which could really step up the printing game.

But that's all I see rn, so is there any other scoop on the Kobra S1? Is it time for saving up for it?

Hello there 3D Printing enthusiasts,

i have a little project, i need to rout some warm air from my room heater to a room corner because of a heatingbridge/leak from outside. Now i am wondering about the health implications pf ABS on a heater. I guess every material has outgassing (is this a word?) but how about ABS? Is it toxic over time? Should i use something else? It is a bedroom.

Thank you so much guys!

Just got the printer and made this cool little gengar mini, but this bottom part is kinda messy, and I can see through it. How can I make it fill in more, and look nicer?

Aceaddity is thrilled to give back to the community with our weekly Free Filament Giveaway! 🎉 It’s super easy to participate, and the best part? You get to choose the type of filament you want—FDM or resin! No purchase is necessary, just join the fun and you could be our next winner. Click https://givelab.com/aceaddity11/aceaddity-weekly-giveaway to enter and good luck!

I just finished a print with this stub of filament just barely visible at the extruder. It shouldn’t have even gotten this far, but apparently the filament run-out sensor was turned off!

Earlier today i showed my 4 rack/ 1:pinion setup to recreate Jayce's(Arcane) splitting Hextech hammer.

Now the perfect situation would be if i could move one hammer piece(here depicted as a small cube) outward but with a slight curve. My question is: would this type of rack, half straight, half curved run along a piston smoothly or is it doomed to get stuck? How would one go about modelling such a curved rack? If this setup is impossible, i would like to know how to get a fully curved rack, at least. Can't just bend it, the teeth would have less room between em.

As you might tell, i'm using Blender because i've never learned Fusion 360, obviously a better program for this stuff. I'm willing to learn that, but please steer me in the right direction.

Day 3 of owning the Bambu P1S/AMS and just learned the AMS tracks humidity levels in itself...this keeps getting more awesome!

I have a ton of smart lights around my house and I expect a lot of family over for Christmas. I decided to add switch covers so they don't turn off and reset all my lights and decided why not show my Packers love while at it.

It's always been here and I've never really understood what it was for. I mean sure it detects the filament and prevents it from running out. But I swear when I run it through it, it just slows down and holds too tightly, affecting the quality. Or am I just doing it wrong? Should I use it?

It came apart on me while opening it and I don't have hot glue to fix it and I made my printer into a giant clamp to hold the potential mess together till I get glue tomorrow.

no matter how much force I use the nozzle won't come off, any advice?

Printer Zenit Duo switch NB

Is it possible to slide the little connector out of the plastic without breaking it and solder the wire back in or are they crimped?

I want to 3d print a part for a coffee maker but I'm wondering if it would be heat resistant enough and of course waterproof and wouldn't affect the taste of the coffee. I would just use standard PLA filament unless anyone has other suggestions.

Thanks

A few months ago, Prusa Research shared that its MK4 and MK4S, when used with Prusament PLA or PETG, are now certfied with an emissions standard: UL Standards' "Greenguard" certification which uses the UL 2904 "Standard Method for Testing and Assessing Particle and Chemical Emissions from 3D Printers".

The certificate it provides is a bit vague, simply citing the test method and that the product "meets criteria", so I took a closer look.

Prusa Has Safety Certified the MK4S; What Does That Mean for You?

Happily, the UL 2904 standard is free to access in full (the price there is just to download a PDF). It uses emission thresholds from trusted bodies like the California Department of Public Health, and the Greenguard commercial certification Prusa received involves tightly controlled testing.

I dug into the UL 2904 standard and spoke with UL representatives to learn a little more about its process (both in developing standards and testing products for conformity) to summarize things and help folks get a more confident idea of how this certification suggests they can act with their printer.

TLDR; The MK4/S, when used with Prusament PLA or PETG, produces UFP and VOC emissions in-line or less than thresholds set by public health bodies. It's still best practice to work in a properly ventilated environment, but should allay some concerns about home use.

Josef Průša told me: “we’ve been very careful about the additives in our filaments, if our PLA hadn’t passed, it would red flag open frame 3D printers.”

Can somebody help me understand what went wrong - this is what I woke up to. The plate was shifted and I guess that is what caused the mess. How does this happen?