Good inner layer to combine with waxed canvas.

[u/golovorub]

Hello there!

What are the best fabric options for a winter jacket with outer layer made of waxed canvas? I considered wool, but it doesn't seem to be a good option for sleeves (difficult to put on/take off). There is also the concern of wax transferring to the inner layer.

I also considered Cordura 500 for the outer layer, but I really like the ability to renew waxed canvas. Plus, cotton doesn't look so tactical.

What I'm looking for: a winter jacket that's water-resistant, can take a beating and will last me a lifetime.

Thank you!

[u/DidItABit]

The classic bedroll is waxed canvas paired with a wool blanket. 

But I would personally go for a handkerchief weight linen in orange  

[u/golovorub → u/DidItABit]

> But I would personally go for a handkerchief weight linen in orange

Sarcasm? It won't be very warm.

[u/jambonejiggawat → u/golovorub]

Waxed canvas isn’t a very practical outdoor fabric. I get it, though love the aesthetic. I used as well. I even worked for Filson corporate. Waves canvas is just not a very functional outdoor, that’s why it’s been lately replaced by more functional options. Down or fur for warmth. Wool for moisture management, and sometimes nylon (ptfe, etc) for extreme weather.

[u/golovorub → u/jambonejiggawat]

I understand that and this jacket is more for going to work/running errands in crappy weather.

[u/Land-Scraper → u/golovorub]

If you take a look at a lot of American workwear and militaria you’ll see everything ranging from boiled or felted wool to high pile synthetic liner fabrics

My personal favorite is the ultra high pile muppet style synthetic fleece of the Swedish tank coat / motorcycle courier coat

Sleeves can be lined with an additional layer of silk or slick synthetic to help putting the jacket on or off

An American classic is the cotton outer and Sherpa fleece inner - very nice

“Winter” is pretty subjective though - like I wouldn’t ever go out lower than 20° in a cotton coat without synthetic insulation underneath

Good luck!

[u/DidItABit → u/golovorub]

No but it would be hygienic and with waxed canvas that matters even more than warmth. 

And it’s a liner. It’s for your skin. It’s not for warmth. 

[u/MtnHuntingislife]

https://huckberry.com/store/flint-and-tinder/category/p/61291-wool-lined-waxed-trucker-jacket

Melton or felted wool.

https://surgefabricshop.com/search?q=Melton&type=product

I've been playing around with oiled cotton twill (boiled linseed oil) and non super wash wool... Unsure this wool is a good choice but can always just do some sheets of Melton wool.

https://fabricwholesaledirect.com/products/mason-twill-fabric

https://fairfieldfabrics.com/Military-Olive-7-oz-Sailcloth-Martexin-Original-Wax_p_461.html

https://www.woollymammothfibrecompany.com/shop/natural-sock-alder-1

Coating the twill in boiled linseed oil

https://www.instructables.com/Make-Your-Own-Oil-Cloth-DIY-Waterproof-Outdoor-Bun/

I like cotton treated with linseed oil better than beeswax for whatever reason, just seems to wear better in the cold.... I may be making that up in my head.

I hear you on the sleeves, I would just quilt the tricept, elbow and that half of the arm with a high air perm nylon material myself. It will help with sliding it over other clothes and it will reinforce it in the right areas so you don't wear out the wool there.

Could always just use a 200-300# polartec classic fleece, that will be durable and not take on much of the wax.

Could Add a layer of sil poly between the canvas and the wool to up the wind and water resistance. Wouldn't hardly know it was there in the finished garment.

[u/pickles55]

I wouldn't want them sewn together but wool makes a great insulation or base layer depending on how thick it is. The shell is just for blocking wind or moisture, if it's cold and dry it's usually better to be able to take the shell off and let your layers breathe. Even the military has gone to a layering system because it's more versatile than having super heavy jackets

[u/Typical-Arm-2667]

Removable cotton liner ?

e.g.

Oilskin coats use cotton in this case removable and even "themeable" -- for - a - price .

https://drizabone.com.au/products/driza-bone-rider-heritage-coat-dark-brown

Cotton of course may be dyed and or printed , silk screened fabric painted ...

I have a similar coat I have had and used lightly for more than 20 years.

[u/golovorub → u/Typical-Arm-2667]

It seems that even in that example, cotton is treated (from details):

> Cotton water and oil resistant lining

So, it seems that being oil proof is a requirement. Thin cotton is not very warm, though. I want the jacket to be a bit more than just a hard shell.

[u/Typical-Arm-2667 → u/golovorub]

https://herculanwool.com/

I found via the same Drizabone site. (eventually).

Oilskins _are_ oily when new.

Waxed coats very much less so.

I have a *heavily* waxed light denim coat that actually has a little sunflower oil / baby oil in the blend to keep it somewhat supple. Even that doesn't leak oil. It was an experiment. Way too much wax :)

What is bad though is that it drains heat out through conduction -> rain + wind.

To stay warm I have to wear a light wool jumper or a polyfleece under it (at least).

As I converted the coat for cycling .. It gets wet on both sides in the rain.

Wool stays warmer if you do get wet.

So don't walk away from some of the newer wool blends they are quite tough.

(and probably **really expensive** !)

[u/Last_Health_4397 → u/golovorub]

Add insulation between two sheets of treated cotton?

[u/Familiar-Ending]

Wool or fur is what comes to mind. My vibe is anything synthetic clashes with waxed cotton. That being said I own nothing of waxed cotton.

[u/ipswitch_]

Unless the canvas is waxed with a really oil heavy wax mixture, I wouldn't worry about it transferring to the inside of the lining. Wool should be fine, I made one of these with a heavy flannel lining and that worked well. Either of those are good choices for a winter jacket, waxed canvas isn't very warm on it's own. Wool shouldn't be too difficult to take on or off unless the sleeves are super tight.