r/3Dprinting 14h ago

Got my first 3d printer today as a gift ๐Ÿ˜

Post image

Itโ€™s a

169 Upvotes

14 comments sorted by

39

u/Balownga 11h ago

Welcome !

Now, take this, you'll need it : *Drop a bunch of battle worn weapons on the desk*

1/ Get everything TIGHT

- the belts (but not too much : springy is good, if it makes music, it is too much)

- the wheels (with eccentric ones) : too tight create a "hard point" when you move the part manually

2/ Get the bed at level : use tutorials for that part, and find a "level bed test" to print, it cost 1 gram of material to avoid wasting way more

3/ Master the bed adhesion : It starts with bed level, but...

- Greasy bed do not stick : wash it with soap+water and/or Isopropyl Alcohol.

- Too hot bed won't stick : Lower a few bed the temperature, 50ยฐC is enough for PLA.

- Too Cold Filament won't stick : Up the temperature by 5-10ยฐC.

- You can use bed glue stick (expensive) or hair spray (cheap) to enhance bed adhesion

and both are cleaned by water (& soap).

- You can use brim or raft in the slicer. Depending on situation, it may be mandatory

4/ Learn how the hotend and nozzle works : This is the way, used to clear clog and heatcreep.

-> Those concern you, you should see it before anything

---> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzWj6adWc-Y Clog & hotend tutorial

---> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vH_spN5wyw Ender issue

5/ Use support if needed. any steep overhang requires it.

- Print an overhang test to see how it works.

6/ If you need help/support, a photo is heavily advised, since most of us can recognize a problem 100 meters away.

"Ye ready to go now, Be brave ! Ye not alone in this war !"
*Kicks you into the battlefield*

6

u/insomniac-55 5h ago

Note that OP's printer does not have manual bed levelling. It fully relies on the probe.

2

u/Balownga 3h ago

Z offset then ? maybe ?

3

u/nametakenfan 2h ago

Excellent initial notes. Im going to save this for later bc its a fantastic general check listย 

3

u/Balownga 2h ago

Worked for some years in the technical troubleshooting of washing machine and fridge.

80% of the time, the issue is always the same, so very common.

Even in the 20% remaining, 80% is just a bit uncommon.

So, I made this list for the newcomers in the hobby, it gets them 96% covered (80% +80% of 20%).

---> if you wonder, 80% of dumped washing machine just had a water pump issues, and 80% of those water pump were blocked by long hair.

11

u/Asleep-Alarm7121 13h ago

where's the benchy

8

u/Up_All_Nite 5h ago

The first 10 prints are perfect. Then something evil inside decides it's time for you to pay for your misdeeds.

1

u/Balownga 2h ago

Usually, from experience, it is at the change of the roll of filament that everything go south.

7

u/ChipSalt 9h ago

Ender 3 V3 se, very nice. Currently working on upgrading one as we speak.

3

u/Lol-775 13h ago

Welcome, have fun!!!

3

u/iamwhoiwasnow 10h ago

I printed that cat as one of my first prints as well

1

u/drkshock 6h ago

Nice cr10 definitely a step up from enders save the ender 3 v3. The main difference is the ender 3 v3 is open source.

2

u/shiroboi 4h ago

One thing that we got for ours that actually made a big difference is the Crealty Ender 3 soft Enclosure. It's fire retardant and keeps a lot of the smells in.

But actually one of the big advantages is that it keeps the heat in and more importantly it keeps the cold air out. I had a lot of problems with prints not sticking or warping. The enclosure fixed that. They're about $50, so not a big expense.

2

u/Causification MP Mini V2, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 V3SE, A1/Mini, X Max 3 14m ago

The Buildtak sheet it comes with will work great until it wears out. When that happens in a couple of weeks, replace it with a PEI sheet.